Headers
Hedman Husler Headers Part# 65849
Update: So here is the update, rather than re-write this and have new comers miss out on things that I have run into in the past I figured I would just put the updates right here. I now run a different combination and use a 153 tooth flexplate, this allows ADEQUATE clearance between the starter and header primaries on the passenger side. I have upgraded the front brakes to Aerospace Components, and this requires a wheel spacer to be used to allow clearance between the rim and caliper, this also helps the tire to primary clearance on both sides when the wheels are cut. The tires are no longer rubbing the headers, there is a solid inch gap, if not more.
(When I refer to #1, #2 cylinder's I'm talking about the primary tube that corresponds to that cylinder.)
Headers are not only a very important part of a performance modification but when it comes to V8 swaps, every little detail now becomes a HUGE detail. Anyone who has done a swap in an S10, or let alone put a motor in a vehicle where it did not belong will be able to relate. I ran the hedman shorties with the trans-dapt motor mounts for the first 4 years I owned this truck. I had little to NO clearance problems, I recessed the firewall in the necessary spots and found a good pipe bender to do the work. The headers were nice, they fit, they were low maintenance, they looked good and they allowed more flow over a stock manifold.
I decided I wanted more top end power from my truck since it seems to see less and less street use every year, so I purchased a set of Hedman Long tube headers. (Pay very close attention to the following) These headers have 1-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. They are NOT in chassis headers, the rear ports on BOTH sides are wrapped around the chassis and go through the wheel well (as pictured below). I believe they are classified as under chassis headers. I will go into detail about some of the problems *I* ran into, and like I said please pay attention to the details so that you can make yourself a check list if you plan on purchasing these headers.
Hedman claims you MUST run a 153tooth flywheel with a MINI starter, (TCI recommended) otherwise these headers will just not fit. I did in fact have a clearance issue with the #2 primary and the starter motor which is no longer an issue now that I run a 153 tooth flexplate.
First off, unless you are pulling the motor to put these headers in you MUST cut BOTH ears off of your transmission if you are running a TH350 (like I am) or a TH400 (which means you either don't want to run a flywheel cover, or you will no longer be using one). If you are NOT running skinny tires up front, you do NOT want these headers, or if you find yourself making TIGHT turns on a daily basis.. you do NOT want these headers. Anyone with wide tires can just forget about these headers right now so stop reading. =) Second, the passenger side header was MUCH harder to install.
The passenger side header was shipped as seen below....

If you read the instructions hedman tells you that you can cut the flange between the #2 and #4 cylinder and then just slip that primary out of it's collector. I had to do that... because if I didn't there was absolutely NO WAY I could have gotten those headers in... UNLESS I installed the headers before I dropped in the motor.
Now I'm not going to lie to you and say I had no clearance problems but if you are running a 168 tooth flexplate you can expect to have to "massage" these pipes a little to get them to fit.
Back to the pipes, the #2 cylinder pipe is going to have to be modified, I am running the TCI mini starter and I still had to clearance it, YES because I don't have a 153 tooth flywheel, those of you with 350s 327's and 305s won't have this problem. On the below, that front pipe, you see that bend right below where the 2 primary's are joined together by a weld?

Right where that bend is, is where your starter is. I had to beat that pipe to clear the starter motor in that 1 spot. Not a whole lot, just enough to get it in, it's not even noticeable. Other than that.. the only other problem I had was getting a spark plug wire onto the #6 cylinder, because I use the porcelain ended wires.


On to the drivers side!!!
The driver's side, went very smoothly, you'll notice when you receive these that the collector is already OFF. Don't put it on until your under the truck. Get the middle 2 tubes down there first. They wrap around the steering shaft just like the shorties, you will need to eliminated that plastic cover if you have it on there, cuz it gets kinda hot down there. Then install your front pipe, and then your rear, there were no modifications needed to the drivers side pipes except for spark plug wire end issues on the #1 cylinder and you can see that in the pictures below. Oh ya, I did have to move the brake line spiral away from the headers. I know that front tube looks close to the brake line but it's not, the shadow is deceiving.




believe it or not the filter can come right out, I use a wrench that cups the bottom. (Notice how far in the ears were cut)
If there was one thing I could change about these headers it would be the amount of ground clearance. Here are pictures taken from the front, and sides.
Front

Drivers Side

Passengers Side
